Things to know before starting CurlyGirl method

  • DO NOT blindly purchase any product even on recommendation without gaining enough knowledge about your hair. This is only going to empty your pockets unless you learn what your hair actually needs “because not all hair is same”.

 

  • Know your hair type.

Diameter – Even though you can say your hair is big/flat/crazy just by looking at your hair in the mirror, it’s the diameter of your hair that’s super important for picking out the right products. Test if your hair is fine, medium, or coarse by doing a strand test.

  1. If you take a single hair in between your fingers and you don’t feel anything, then you have fine hair.
  2. If you can feel the hair, then it’s medium.
  3. If you feel a strong, thick strand, then you are coarse.

Density

Determining both your diameter AND density will help narrow down the types of product you should use. Someone with dense, coarse hair will need smoothing products. While someone with less dense but still coarse hair will need a Volumising product. Just because the diameter of your hair is fine doesn’t mean you can’t have a thick head of hair — and vice versa. So, get to know the density of your hair by standing in front of a mirror, grab a handful of hair at the side of your head and notice the space around that ‘clump.’ Can you easily see your scalp? Your hair is likely thin. No scalp visible? Probably thick. If you’re in the middle, you likely have hair of medium density.

Elasticity

The amount of elasticity your hair has indicates how healthy it is, plus how easy it’ll be to style the way you want. To begin to slowly stretch the hair. If it breaks almost immediately, your elasticity is low, but if it stretches to 50 percent of its original length, your hair has high elasticity.

Texture/Curl pattern

Compare your hair texture with the below to understand where exactly do you fit in.

hair-type-chart

 

 

  • Educate yourself with the Curly Girl method.

CG method was introduced to an international, multi-ethnic audience by hairstylist   Lorraine Massey in her bestselling book, Curly Girl: The Handbook. Following are the so called rules under this method:

  • Say no to shampoo or use a sulphate free shampoo because it strips your hair of its natural oil called sebum. (Avoid products with ingredients like Sodium lauryl sulphate, Sodium laureth, Ammonium laureth or lauryl sulfate, Ammonium or Sodium Xylenesulfonate, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Sodium cocoyl sarcosinate etc)
  • Use Silicone free conditioner and stylers since silicones buildup on hair and ruin the natural curl pattern. (Avoid products with ingredients ending with cone, col, nol, xane etc.)
  • Unplug the dryer and use a diffuser instead.
  • Not using a brush instead use a wide tooth comb to avoid frizz and breakage.
  • Trim your hair to get rid of the damage or split ends.
  • Co-wash or Conditioner wash to clean your scalp and hair as a second option to a shampoo.
  • Apply products to your hairDo it while it is soaking wet. Smooth or rake the product into your hair by sections. A common method is to begin with a leave-in cream or conditioner to decrease frizz and then follow with a gel for hold and definition. Using your normal conditioner as a leave-in is fine too. Scrunch in an upward motion with hands.
  • Ditch your towel and scrunch your hair with a cotton t-shirt, paper towels, or a micro-fiber towel to remove excess water/moisture.
  • Decrease the drying time of your hair by plop Plopping means spreading an old t-shirt or micro-fiber towel onto a flat surface. Bend over at the waist and position your hair in the middle of the cloth. With your head touching the cloth, drape the back section of cloth over your head. Twist the sides until they form “sausage rolls” and clip or tie them at the base of your neck. After 15-30 minutes remove the t-shirt and air dry/diffuse.
  • Do not touch your hair while it is 100% dry or it will mess up and frizz.
  • Give your hair time to adjust. It takes 2-4 weeks for your hair to adjust or even more. It may even look worse at first. Hair is a long-term project and it may take a couple weeks for it to regain its health after being stripped of moisture for years by harsh chemical and sulphate shampoo.
  • Finally Clarify with a sulfate shampoo or clarifying shampoo before beginning. This will cleanse your hair of any silicones–ingredients in some hair products you would have using that are not water soluble.
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Gatsby Water gloss hyper solid gel

I found this amazing little anGEL the other day when I was on my grocery shopping. And guess what I did when I had the first sight of it?🤔 Yes, you are right! I quickly jumped in to check the ingredients and to my amusement it was absolutely CG friendly and protein free. Flaxseed gel will and forever remain my ultimate favourite but I was really delighted to have found something which I was looking for like ages.

So let’s look at the ingredients:

Water (Aqua), SD, Alcohol 40-B, PVP, Dipropylene Glycol, VP/VA, Copolymer, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Cellulose Gum, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Methylparaben, Fragrance (Parfum), Benzophenone-2, Benzophenone-5, Disodium EDTA, CI 14700.

Price: INR 120.00

300gms

And here are the Pros of this gel.

  • As the name suggests this gel has a very very hyper hold which I loved because I have thick curls and I like my gel to give the best hold.
  • CG friendly as in No Sulfate, silicone and absolutely protein free.
  • It is very glossy and hence gives a natural shine to your hair.
  • Non sticky and soft to touch.
  • Budget friendly.
  • Easy availability.
  • Love the fragrance.
  • Big tub so a little goes a long way.

Cons:

  • Need not suit people with fine and thin hair due to its high holding power which is 7. However, there are other varieties under the same brand which have much lesser holding power like 2 and 5.

I would definitely purchase this gel again when I run out of my homemade flaxseed gel or go too lazy to prepare the gel at home😜

The Struggles of being a Protein Sensitive

1511971398720We all know the importance of protein in our daily life and hair care. And especially if you are a curly girl who loves protein in the hair, it can give you amazing results such as hair growth, definition, clump and so on just when your curls lack them by doing a simple protein treatment. But what if you are on the other side of the ore and your hair hates protein?Well, here comes the real struggle of being a curly girl!!

I learned the fact that i was really sensitive to protein gradually through my hair care routine. When i begun my journey I did not have the faintest idea that my hair could hate protein. But I am glad that i could demystify myself from the fact as to why my hair was behaving so strange after all, through various protein tests and product usage. Please check out my older post on protein and its sensitivity to know how you can identify if your hair needs protein or not. Protein and its sensitivity on hair 

So, here comes the ultimate challenge. Now that you know protein is your biggest enemy, you need hair products without any kind of protein related ingredient along with any sulfates or silicones especially if you are dying to go all natural. I have literally struggled to find products without SSP as i say (Sulfates, Silicones, Proteins). I researched, googled online, connected with curly hair experts but all i could find were very few products which were either impossible to grab due to non shipped region or too expensive and not under my budgeted line. Whenever I found any CG friendly product in store or online I would straight away dive into the ingredients section to find out if they were protein free, unfortunately I was disappointed every time.

So, I decided to let go off the SS from my SSP and searched for products without protein alone and did not mind the sulfates and silicones 😦 And then I came across the Organix quenching coconut line products from Ogx. I was pretty happy the way they suited my curls but somewhere down the line was guilty enough to be using them after all they were not CG friendly products.

I kept my research on in the search of those magical products and was fortunate enough to find a silicone and protein free conditioner from Tresemme botanix which was under my budget so i grabbed them but still continued to use a sulfate shampoo. And very recently around 5 months ago i learned about few more products and one among them was the body shop rainforest line through one of my social media friend which was SSP free and could be netted as a budgeted product when compared to the other high branded ones. So, finally I started using a perfect blend of products with the right ingredients.

I am still in the hunt for SSP free curly hair products which could be easily available and not very expensive at the same time. And i am dying to create a list of these products for my co-protein sensitive curlies, “BECAUSE I KNOW THE STRUGGLE” 🙂 So stay tuned!!

Ways to detangle your curls

Detangling your curls is a very important aspect of a proper hair care routine. It would eliminate frizz and knots during non wash days. However, it is recommended not to detangle your hair when its dry to prevent breakage. It is also best to use your fingers to remove the tangles rather than a brush or comb.

You would always need a slippery agent in your hair to detangle easily. So here are the different ways in which you can easily detangle your hair:

  • Pre-Poo ~ Use oils like coconut oil, olive oil or argan oil and apply it on to your hair in a smoothing motion before you shampoo. Gently detangle your hair using fingers.
  • During condition ~ You could also detangle your hair while you have your conditioner on hair. Since the conditioner has good slip, it would allow you to remove the tangles easily without much breakage.
  • Under running water ~ This is one of my favorite way to detangle my hair. Before you shampoo your hair, get your hair under running water in upside down position. Let the water run through your hair. Using fingers gently separate the tangles. Since the hair already has conditioner and leave in conditioner from the refresh days, it would provide quite a good amount of slip to hair.

Refreshing your hair on non wash days will reduce frizz and tangles on hair. (See my post on how to refresh your curls)

The Shingling method

The Shingling method is a curly hair wash routine / technique where in we define or moisturise the hair strand by strand using a leave in conditioner/curl cream or hair gel. The best way to go about this method is to section off hair into four small sections, and then again make smaller sections inside each of those sections to focus on the strands. The process is time consuming and requires your ultimate patience 🙂 It is best to practice this style on soaking wet hair. This styling method is most commonly used by curlies who have kinky or coily curls.

It is also possible to shingle in very tiny sections if you do not have much time or if your hair type is wavy or 3a/3b curls.

Once you finish shingling a strand or section do not touch it and continue to complete the whole hair without messing the hair strands. Once you are done with the whole hair you could either air dry or use a diffuser to dry out your hair.

This method gives you ultimate curl definition and reduce frizz to a large extent.

I recently styled my hair using this method which was indeed time consuming and patience testing, although I was very happy with the result. I used the following products:

  • Washed my hair with SebaMed baby shampoo.
  • Deep conditioned using my favourite mask (Tresemme botanix conditioner + olive oil + honey)
  • Rinsed and used the same conditioner as leave in.
  • Shingled using Ogx moroccan curling perfection cream.

 

 

 

Curly hair mistakes

Have you been wondering why your hair is dry, tangled and frizzy all the time and what do you lack in your curly hair care?

Well, there are few curly hair etiquette which we must follow in order to avoid this. These are among some of my personal experiences as well, after avoiding which I could deal with less tangled and frizz free curls. So let’s begin~

    • Since curly hair is already dry using shampoo very often for cleansing could result in dryness and breakage. Thus, try to avoid shampoo as much as possible and minimise it’s usage per week. You could start Co washing or dilute the shampoo with water while washing which could reduce the harsh effect of it on your hair.
    • Not applying enough conditioner after shampooing could also result in frizz. Curly hair needs lots of moisture which is provided by conditioner and water. They must work together on hair. So do not hesitate to pump as much as conditioner needed to drench all your hair into it.
    • Not using a leave in conditioner or hair butter after wash is another reason for frizz. I usually use my daily conditioner as leave in conditioner as well since it is silicone free and pretty much do the same job.
    • Combing your hair dry is the next reason for frizzy hair. Try to detangle after you oil your hair before wash or while applying conditioner in the shower. However, it is necessary to avoid combing or detangling on a non wash day.
    • Using a towel to dry your hair could create more frizz. Do not rub your hair with the towel instead use a micro fiber towel or a normal cotton t-shirt to remove excess water from your hair by scrunching them from tip to root.
    • Do not touch or play with your damp or wet hair. Running your fingers in them before they are 100% dry could result in frizz.
    • Sleep in a pineapple hair style. You could also invest in a satin cap and put all your hair inside in a gentle high top knot.
    • Use a satin or silk pillow case to sleep. Cotton pillow cover would encourage frizz formation  when your hair is rubbed over them.
    • Refresh your hair on non wash days to minimise frizz.
    • Choosing the right products for your hair is another important aspect in avoiding dry and frizzy hair. You must know your hair and understand what’s best and what’s not suitable for your curls. Read the ingredients while purchasing a product.
    • Try and avoid going outside after you wash your hair. As far as possible wait for it to dry 100%.
    • Using a blow dryer could also make your hair dry and rough. Try to air dry as far as possible or invest in a hair diffuser and use a cool medium to diffuse your curls.
    • Do not work on your curls too much in between wash days. Avoid unnecessary fiddle or running fingers on your curls.

 

Clarifying your hair!

We Curlies love product on our hair and use so many different kinds of them to style, moisturise, define, volumize and provide shine to our curls. This definitely increases product buildup which could weigh down your curls or make it difficult to clump them together. So, there comes the need to clarify your hair which can be done using a good clarifying shampoo having sulfate but no silicone since silicone will again build up on your hair. However, curlies who strictly follow curly girl method and are away from sulfate and silicone products would need another way to do this. Read on to know how.

My curls were feeling very dry and brittle from past couple of washes. Even though I am not a product junkie and I have recently started using a silicone free conditioner, I have used products having sulfates and silicones in the past. And that’s why I thought to clarify my hair once and for the first time to see if i can bring back life to my curls. And so i came up with few simple solutions using natural ingredients from the kitchen and the results were totally amazing.

So, you can do this in two ways:

  • Use apple cider vinegar which is also known as an anti-bacterial, anti-fungal and general clarifying ingredient to rinse your hair which would remove build-up and/or dandruff from the hair and will restore hair’s pH balance back to its natural acidic state. You can prepare the solution using one part of vinegar to four part of water. Massage the mix onto your scalp and hair. Allow it to sit for 3 minutes and then rinse with cold water. Follow this with your normal conditioning process.
  • Second easily available ingredient from your kitchen is baking soda. Use one tablespoon of baking soda with one cup of fresh water and rinse your scalp and hair thoroughly followed by your normal conditioner to condition your hair.

*Add aloe vera juice to the baking soda and water mixture (Optional)                                      *Add cornstarch in case you need a little thicker consistency (Optional)

Both these methods are simple and inexpensive. And if you feel you are in a similar situation, try this method and let me know your thoughts in the comments below. Clarify your hair at least once a month to remove all the product build up and make your curls weightless. Let the Curls breath 😉