How to Volumise your Curls

Getting volume on your curly hair is often compromised with definition especially if you have fine and thin hair. I have been experiencing and experimenting on certain areas to enhance my hair volume this winter and I must say I am quite impressed with the results. So let’s dig in>>>>

  • Diffusing the hair upside down – This technique has made such a tremendous improvement in maximising the volume of my curls and reducing frizz. When you diffuse this way you actually lift the roots and increase space between them for more volume.
  • Clipping the hair – This is a technique for those who prefer to air dry . Once your are done with styling, gently lift small sections of your hair and clip them to roots all around your head. You could use 4 to 5 clips depending on your hair density. Make sure to leave enough gap between each clip.
  • Fluff and shake your roots – Once the hair is 100% dry, get your hair upside down the gently insert your fingers on to hair and shake the roots. This could be done after you scrunch out the crunch (SOTC).
  • Get layers – Get a haircut with lots of layers to increase the volume on your hair. This will also enhance the curl your natural texture.
  • Use Volumizing shampoo / stylers – There are many brands these days who sell such shampoos/ mouse/ foams especially designed for fine haired curlies.
  • Avoid oil during styling – Using oil while styling your hair could weigh down the hair and compromise on the volume. Use foams and gels instead.
  • Use lighter products – Butters and creams are known to weigh down the hair more than others. Thus try to use lighter and lesser products to gain more volume.
  • Clarify your hair monthly – Product buildup could weigh down your hair and not give you enough volume. So remember to clarify once a month especially if you have low porosity hair which tends to buildup faster.
  • Part your hair differently –  Changing the way you part your hair could get you extra volume.
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Grapeseed Oil

Grapeseed oil doesn’t get as much love as it should because it is not as trendy as jojoba, coconut, olive, Argan, or even castor oil. However, it is one of the most lightweight oils available. Its ability to condition and seal moisture into the hair is top-notch. Also, grapeseed oil is non-greasy and absorbs easily into the hair, skin and scalp. In cold seasons, grapeseed oil is a great alternative to coconut oil, which can solidify and leave little lumps on the hair due to cooler temperatures.

Now let us look at the properties of this liquid gold (amazing oil ;-))

  • It has no odor so you won’t have to worry about layering on perfume to cover it.
  • It is light, so it won’t leave your hair feeling weighed down. This property makes this oil great for people with thin hair that is easily weighed down or people who like to layer on many different products.
  • It has antiseptic properties and is a mild astringent which are both help keep the scalp healthy and fight dandruff. Hot oil treatments with grapeseed oil leave hair shiny and fight scalp dryness.
  • It contains Vitamin E, a natural antioxidant that helps to heal and build tissues. Vitamin E reduces inflammation, heals the scalp, and promotes healthy hair follicles which, in turn results in healthy hair growth.
  • It is hypoallergenic, which makes it a perfect choice for everyone, including curlies with sensitive scalps.

So, have you guys used grapeseed oil? How do you like it? Let me know in the comments below 🙂

*Info Source – Naturallycurly.com

Things to know before starting CurlyGirl method

  • DO NOT blindly purchase any product even on recommendation without gaining enough knowledge about your hair. This is only going to empty your pockets unless you learn what your hair actually needs “because not all hair is same”.

 

  • Know your hair type.

Diameter – Even though you can say your hair is big/flat/crazy just by looking at your hair in the mirror, it’s the diameter of your hair that’s super important for picking out the right products. Test if your hair is fine, medium, or coarse by doing a strand test.

  1. If you take a single hair in between your fingers and you don’t feel anything, then you have fine hair.
  2. If you can feel the hair, then it’s medium.
  3. If you feel a strong, thick strand, then you are coarse.

Density

Determining both your diameter AND density will help narrow down the types of product you should use. Someone with dense, coarse hair will need smoothing products. While someone with less dense but still coarse hair will need a Volumising product. Just because the diameter of your hair is fine doesn’t mean you can’t have a thick head of hair — and vice versa. So, get to know the density of your hair by standing in front of a mirror, grab a handful of hair at the side of your head and notice the space around that ‘clump.’ Can you easily see your scalp? Your hair is likely thin. No scalp visible? Probably thick. If you’re in the middle, you likely have hair of medium density.

Elasticity

The amount of elasticity your hair has indicates how healthy it is, plus how easy it’ll be to style the way you want. To begin to slowly stretch the hair. If it breaks almost immediately, your elasticity is low, but if it stretches to 50 percent of its original length, your hair has high elasticity.

Texture/Curl pattern

Compare your hair texture with the below to understand where exactly do you fit in.

hair-type-chart

 

 

  • Educate yourself with the Curly Girl method.

CG method was introduced to an international, multi-ethnic audience by hairstylist   Lorraine Massey in her bestselling book, Curly Girl: The Handbook. Following are the so called rules under this method:

  • Say no to shampoo or use a sulphate free shampoo because it strips your hair of its natural oil called sebum. (Avoid products with ingredients like Sodium lauryl sulphate, Sodium laureth, Ammonium laureth or lauryl sulfate, Ammonium or Sodium Xylenesulfonate, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Sodium cocoyl sarcosinate etc)
  • Use Silicone free conditioner and stylers since silicones buildup on hair and ruin the natural curl pattern. (Avoid products with ingredients ending with cone, col, nol, xane etc.)
  • Unplug the dryer and use a diffuser instead.
  • Not using a brush instead use a wide tooth comb to avoid frizz and breakage.
  • Trim your hair to get rid of the damage or split ends.
  • Co-wash or Conditioner wash to clean your scalp and hair as a second option to a shampoo.
  • Apply products to your hairDo it while it is soaking wet. Smooth or rake the product into your hair by sections. A common method is to begin with a leave-in cream or conditioner to decrease frizz and then follow with a gel for hold and definition. Using your normal conditioner as a leave-in is fine too. Scrunch in an upward motion with hands.
  • Ditch your towel and scrunch your hair with a cotton t-shirt, paper towels, or a micro-fiber towel to remove excess water/moisture.
  • Decrease the drying time of your hair by plop. Plopping means spreading an old t-shirt or micro-fiber towel onto a flat surface. Bend over at the waist and position your hair in the middle of the cloth. With your head touching the cloth, drape the back section of cloth over your head. Twist the sides until they form “sausage rolls” and clip or tie them at the base of your neck. After 15-30 minutes remove the t-shirt and air dry/diffuse.
  • Do not touch your hair while it is 100% dry or it will mess up and frizz.
  • Give your hair time to adjust. It takes 2-4 weeks for your hair to adjust or even more. It may even look worse at first. Hair is a long-term project and it may take a couple weeks for it to regain its health after being stripped of moisture for years by harsh chemical and sulphate shampoo.
  • Finally Clarify with a sulfate shampoo or clarifying shampoo before beginning. This will cleanse your hair of any silicones–ingredients in some hair products you would have using that are not water soluble.

 

  • Plan a hair routine

❤ Make a decision as to when and how many hair washes you will need per week. This will depend from person to person. If you feel your hair does not get itchy/ greasy soon you can have a wash whenever you feel the need. Sort about the products to use or seek advice. Click here for My hair routine OR click the link below for a video on my hair routine https://youtu.be/DAihH8h6GHA

❤ Deep Condition  – This is one of the most important aspect of a hair routine. Deep conditioning your hair on a weekly basis helps to get rid of dryness and retain moisture on hair. Check here to know how to deep condition.

Hair Porosity

Hair Porosity refers to how well your hair is able to absorb and hold moisture. It is affected by the flexible outer hair layer called the cuticle, which determines how easily moisture and oils pass in and out of your hair. For most, porosity is genetic, but it can also be affected by external factors such as exposure, heat treatments and chemical processing. Knowing your hair’s porosity can help you choose the right products to keep your hair well-moisturized, supple, strong and shiny. And here are three ways to determine where yours falls on the porosity spectrum: low, normal or high.

  • Hair strand test

Drop few hair strands that’s been shed as a result of brushing/combing into a glass bowl of water and let it remain untouched for few hours. If the strands float, your hair is low porosity. If your hair remains somewhere in the middle, it means they are normal porosity, and if it sinks and lays at the bottom of the bowl, your hair is high porosity.

  • Go by feel

Gently stretch a tiny section of curl strands from different areas of your head – front hairline, nape, crown and temple. Place the stretched curl between your thumb and finger and slide it up the hair strand from the tip towards the scalp. If your fingers move easily up the strand and it feels dense and hard, you have low porosity hair. If it feels smooth, you have normal porosity hair. And if the strand feels rough or dry or it breaks, you have high porosity hair.

  • Water absorption capacity

If your hair takes a long time to absorb water and you can find droplets of water on top of your hair, you have low porosity hair. And if it quickly absorbs water then it means your hair is high porosity. And if the time consumption is medium then normal porosity.

hair-porosity-types@2x

  • Low Porosity hair 

Low porosity hair has very compact cuticles, so it’s hard to inject moisture into the hair shaft, although it does retain moisture once it absorbs. Thus, use heat such as steamer,warm towel, shower cap, drier etc to help products absorb better and bind with the hair well. Always distribute products evenly throughout your hair making sure not to put too much on. And apply products to damp, not drenched hair. Also cleanse your hair of product buildup once a month using an ACV (Apple Cider Vinegar) or sulfate shampoo. Low porosity hair is more prone to protein sensitivity.

Some other characteristics of this type of hair are:

  1. Curls take long time to dry.
  2. Products tend to build up on curls rather than getting absorbed.
  3. Natural oils don’t readily penetrate, but rather sit on your hair.
  • High Porosity Hair

These kind of hair Parched needs products that help it retain as much moisture as possible. So use minimal heat. It’s best to air dry your hair, if possible. Incorporate regular deep conditioning treatments into your curl care routine. Rinse with cold water to seal the cuticle and prevent frizz. The LOC (Leave in, oil and cream) method works on such hair type very well.

Some other characteristics of this type of hair are:

  1. Curls easily absorb water, however, it requires more products.
  2. Curls often look and feel dry.
  3.  Curls are often frizzy.
  4.  Curls dry quickly.
  • Normal Porosity hair

Normal porosity hair has compact cuticles that easily let moisture enter in. So continue to do regular deep conditioning treatments to maintain good product absorption.

Some other characteristics of this type of hair are:

  1. Curls are full of bounce and elasticity.
  2. Requires very little maintenance.
  3.  Easily accepts and retains moisture inside the cuticle.
  4.  Holds styles well and can be colored with good results.

List of Protein free CG friendly products

Hey readers! So finally i have listed out some absolutely protein free ( including Panthanol) and CG friendly products which could be used by all those who are sensitive to protein and also follow the curly girl method as well and do not want any sulfates and silicones in their products. Please feel free to comment below if you do not see any product you happen to know or use which are SSP free and are missing in the list below. So here you go.

PS- I will be updating the list as and when i find any more new product .

Protein free CG friendly Shampoos

  • The Body Shop Rainforest Moisture Shampoo
  • The Body Shop Rainforest Balance Shampoo
  • The Body Shop Rainforest Volume Shampoo.
  • The Body Shop Rainforest Radiance Shampoo
  • The Body Shop Rainforest Shine Shampoo
  • As I Am Curl Clarity Shampoo
  • Kinky-Curly Come Clean Moisturizing Shampoo (Contains Olefin sulfonate)
  • Shea Moisture African Black Soap Deep Cleansing Shampoo
  • Alikay Naturals Coconut Milk Shampoo
  • Elaine hair and body clarifying shampoo

 

Protein free CG friendly Conditioners

  • The Body shop rainforest moisture conditioner
  • The Body Shop Rainforest Volumising Conditioner
  • The Body Shop Rainforest Shine Conditioner
  • The Body Shop Rainforest Balance Conditioner
  • The Body Shop Rainforest Radiance Conditioner
  • Curl Junkie Curl Assurance Smoothing Conditioner
  • Kinky Curly Knot Today conditioner
  • Matrix Biolage conditioning balm
  • Shea Moisture African Black Soap Balancing Conditioner
  • TRESemme Botanique Nourish + Replenish Conditioner
  • Yes To Carrots Conditioner
  • Yes to Cucumbers Conditioner
  • Elaine hair and body conditioner (and a separate leave in conditioner)

 

Protein free CG friendly Deep Conditioners

  • Body shop rainforest moisture hair butter
  • Body Shop Rainforest Radiance Hair Butter
  • As I Am Hydration Elation Intensive Conditioner
  • Curl Junkie Curl Rehab Moisturizing Hair Treatment
  • EDEN BodyWorks JojOba Monoi Deep Conditioner
  • Jessicurl Deep Conditioning Treatment
  • Shea Moisture African Black Soap Purification Masque
  • Maui moisture heal & hydrate mask
  • Eden natural deep conditioner
  • Elaine hair and body deep conditioner
  • DIY homemade Mask

 

Protein free CG friendly Gels

  • Kinky curling custard gel
  • As i am curling jelly
  • Giovanni LA Natural Hair Styling Gel
  • Jane carter coiling all curls elongating gel
  • DIY homemade flaxseed gel

 

Protein free CG friendly Curl creams

  • Ogx moroccan curling perfection defining cream
  • Rizos curls curl defining cream
  • Jane carter conditioning styling cream

Gatsby Water gloss hyper solid gel

I found this amazing little anGEL the other day when I was on my grocery shopping. And guess what I did when I had the first sight of it?🤔 Yes, you are right! I quickly jumped in to check the ingredients and to my amusement it was protein free but did have SD alcohol which could be a drying agent . Nevertheless I decided to give it a try since it is very difficult to find a gel without protein / panthanol. Flaxseed gel will and forever remain my ultimate favourite but I was really delighted to have found something which I was looking for like ages.

So let’s look at the ingredients:

Water (Aqua), SD, Alcohol 40-B, PVP, Dipropylene Glycol, VP/VA, Copolymer, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Cellulose Gum, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Methylparaben, Fragrance (Parfum), Benzophenone-2, Benzophenone-5, Disodium EDTA, CI 14700.

Price: INR 120.00

300gms

And here are the Pros of this gel.

  • As the name suggests this gel has a very very hyper hold which I loved because I have thick curls and I like my gel to give the best hold.
  • Protein free.
  • It is very glossy and hence gives a natural shine to your hair.
  • Not very sticky and soft to touch.
  • Budget friendly.
  • Easy availability.
  • Love the fragrance.
  • Big tub so a little goes a long way.

Cons:

  • Need not suit people with fine and thin hair due to its high holding power which is 7. However, there are other varieties under the same brand which have much lesser holding power like 2 and 5.
  • Contains SD alcohol which could be drying for some. So make sure to use a lot of leave in and creams before u put on this gel to give extra moisture.

I would definitely purchase this gel again when I run out of my homemade flaxseed gel or go too lazy to prepare the gel at home😜

The Struggles of being a Protein Sensitive

1511971398720We all know the importance of protein in our daily life and hair care. And especially if you are a curly girl who loves protein in the hair, it can give you amazing results such as hair growth, definition, clump and so on just when your curls lack them by doing a simple protein treatment. But what if you are on the other side of the ore and your hair hates protein?Well, here comes the real struggle of being a curly girl!!

I learned the fact that i was really sensitive to protein gradually through my hair care routine. When i begun my journey I did not have the faintest idea that my hair could hate protein. But I am glad that i could demystify myself from the fact as to why my hair was behaving so strange after all, through various protein tests and product usage. Please check out my older post on protein and its sensitivity to know how you can identify if your hair needs protein or not. Protein and its sensitivity on hair 

So, here comes the ultimate challenge. Now that you know protein is your biggest enemy, you need hair products without any kind of protein related ingredient along with any sulfates or silicones especially if you are dying to go all natural. I have literally struggled to find products without SSP as i say (Sulfates, Silicones, Proteins). I researched, googled online, connected with curly hair experts but all i could find were very few products which were either impossible to grab due to non shipped region or too expensive and not under my budgeted line. Whenever I found any CG friendly product in store or online I would straight away dive into the ingredients section to find out if they were protein free, unfortunately I was disappointed every time.

So, I decided to let go off the SS from my SSP and searched for products without protein alone and did not mind the sulfates and silicones 😦 And then I came across the Organix quenching coconut line products from Ogx. I was pretty happy the way they suited my curls but somewhere down the line was guilty enough to be using them after all they were not CG friendly products.

I kept my research on in the search of those magical products and was fortunate enough to find a silicone and protein free conditioner from Tresemme botanix which was under my budget so i grabbed them but still continued to use a sulfate shampoo. And very recently around 5 months ago i learned about few more products and one among them was the body shop rainforest line through one of my social media friend which was SSP free and could be netted as a budgeted product when compared to the other high branded ones. So, finally I started using a perfect blend of products with the right ingredients.

I am still in the hunt for SSP free curly hair products which could be easily available and not very expensive at the same time. And i am dying to create a list of these products for my co-protein sensitive curlies, “BECAUSE I KNOW THE STRUGGLE” 🙂 So stay tuned!!